Safeguarding cheesemaking / Saint James Paris, France

Relais & Châteaux

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Julien Dumas, the new chef of the Saint James Paris, tells us about a cheese that he enjoys thanks to his cheesemonger and "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" friend Bernard Mure Ravaud. While the tradition for this cheese dates back to the 18th century, Persillé de Tignes is no longer made, except for one producer: the Marmottan family farm. Why has it gone out of fashion? The Tignes dam, built in the 1950s, submerged the old village and forced the population to leave. Instead, a burgeoning mountain tourist trade appeared and replaced demanding age-old practices, such as the Persillé de Tignes. Today, this excellent product represents the commitment required from communities everywhere to protect culinary heritage.

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